After arriving in Berlin on Wednesday afternoon and checking into our hotel, the first line of business was getting to the nearest Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas market) at Gendarmenmarkt for our first cup of Glühwein, the mulled red wine served during this time of year. The Deutscher Dom (German Cathedral), at the south end of Gendarmenmarkt. The Französischer Dom (French Cathedral), a near mirror image, at the north end of Gendarmenmarkt. The entire square was filled with star-topped tents, selling everything from sausages, Christmas sweets, ornaments, leather goods, soaps and candles, other hand-made gift items, and of course Glühwein. The Konzerthaus (Concert Hall), also on Gendarmenmarkt. The Deutscher Dom and Weihnachtsmarkt tent tops. A view over Gendarmenmarkt from the steps of the Konzerthaus. And what's even better than chocolates on your pillow? You got it... Haribo Goldbären, the <em>original</em> (not to mention best) gummi bears! In all the time I've spent in Germany over the decades, I've never before made it to Berlin. After a good night's sleep, the first thing to see was the iconic Brandenburger Tor, Berlin's most recognizable landmark. The <em>Quadriga</em> sculpture crowning the gate. Brandenburger Tor Brandenburger Tor The <em>Quadriga</em> sculpture crowning the gate. The Siegessäule (Triumphal Column), commemorating Prussian war victories, located in the middle of the Tiergarten park. Another famous landmark of Berlin, the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-Kirche, was unrecognizable clad in scaffolding and sheathing. Major renovation work is being done to help save what's left of this church, nearly totally destroyed in 1943 during WWII. The front tower remains today as a war monument. We were at least able to go inside to see some of the original ceiling mosaics. A new octagonal church, with a freestanding bell tower on the opposite site of the memorial ruins, was built in 1963. We also got to experience our second Weihnachtsmarkt – in total, we visited 4 different Christmas markets in Berlin alone. The new church was actually a lot more impressive from the inside... a pleasant surprise compared to what we were expecting. A closer view of some of the modern stained glass. A large Christmas pyramid, something we'd end up seeing at lots of the markets. Lights on the trees along Unter den Linden, one of the most famous streets in Berlin. We ended the day at Alexanderplatz, enjoying what we felt was the best Weihnachtsmarkt in the city and great views of the Fernsehturm (TV tower), the tallest structure in Western Europe. A hotel and the DDR Museum along the Spree River. The museum gave a great look into what daily life was like in the former East Germany. The Weihnachtsmarkt at Alexanderplatz, our favorite not only in Berlin but as it turned out, of all the markets we visited throughout our trip. Another large-scale Christmas pyramid. Ben enjoying a plate of Grünkohl, Wurst and of course more Glühwein. I don't even want to know how much we drank over the two weeks... or how much that cost us. At 2.5 to 3 Euros each (about $3.50 on average), it added up. The world clock in Alexanderplatz – a 7 hour difference between Germany and Minneapolis. The Märkisches Museum, dedicated to the cultural history of Berlin. We didn't go in, but the architecture of the building was beautiful. A number of sections from the Berlin Wall stood outside the museum. Reminders of the city's former division are everywhere in Berlin. Along the Spree River, with a beautiful view towards the Fernsehturm (our next destination). The Rotes Rathaus (Red Town Hall) on Alexanderplatz. Marienkirche (St. Mary's Church), next to the Fernsehturm on Alexanderplatz. The television tower was built by the East German government in 1969. The metal sphere contains a rotating restaurant and viewing platform. The Rotes Rathaus (Red Town Hall) from the viewing platform. To the north, in what was formerly East Berlin, there were blocks and blocks of non-descript, characterless DDR-era apartment buildings. Museuminsel (Museum Island), with the Bode Museum, Pergamonmuseum, Neues Museum, and Alte Nationalgalerie in view. We also got a good view of the O2 World arena, where we'd be going that night to see our favorite band, Rammstein, play their home city. This concert actually prompted the entire trip in the first place. I planned to take pictures of the concert, but security confiscated my camera (cell phone cameras only, I guess). The only concert shots I got were from <em>outside</em> the arena. The show was awesome, in spite of our less-than-ideal seats high up in the rafters. Luckily I got the camera back after the show, and got a few night shots of the East Side Gallery which runs along the road in front of the arena. This is the longest remaining intact stretch of the Berlin Wall. One of the most famous of the wall paintings here, Bruderkuss (Brother kiss) depicts Brezhnev and Honecker. The caption reads, "My God. Help me survive this deadly love." The next morning, we had reservations to tour the Reichstag, the German Parliament building built during the late 1800s. "To the German people" The building survived WWII with no real interior damage, but didn't survive the 1960s intact. Considered too ornate for the design preferences of the era, intricate carvings were chiseled away and stone walls covered with plaster. Today, one hallway has been uncovered to show what remains of the original structure (including Russian grafiti from the building's occupation in 1945 following Germany's defeat in WWII). The newer glass dome caps the parliamentary session chamber, and provides lighting and HVAC functions. The base of the funnel draws stale air out of the space and exhausts it through an opening at the top of the dome. A view of the dome from within the session chamber. The plenary session chamber. A large, plump version of the Federal Eagle, the official state symbol of Germany, decorates the chamber. Ornithologists have apparently stated that this more stylized version of an eagle would never be able to fly, and is in fact more anatomically similar to a chicken than an eagle. At the end of the tour, we got to walk up to the top of the dome. It truly is a piece of artwork... stunningly beautiful in its design and function. Mirrors direct sunlight into the session chamber, reducing the need for electrical lighting. A shade screen rotates around the dome, following the sun, to keep things from getting too hot. And the funnel inside the mirror sheathing exhausts stale air out the top of the dome. The glass dome from the roof of the Reichstag building. A nice perspective of the Brandenburger Tor. The roof of the Sony Center at Potsdamer Platz. One of the four corner towers of the building. From the Reichstag we continued on to the north end of Museuminsel (Museum Island), an island surrounded by the Spree River and which contains a large number of famous museums (this one being the Alte Nationalgalerie, the Old National Gallery). We visited the Neues Museum (New Museum), which was recently reconstructed and beautifully combines modern styles with the old and ancient. The real star here though is the famous bust of Nefertiti, and the sole reason we came. Having loved ancient Egyptian history since I was a child, I could not have left Berlin without seeing her (no pictures were allowed, so this one is snagged from the internet). She was magnificent... an utterly stunning piece of artwork, well deserving of her notoriety. The Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral). The Nikolaikirche, originally built around 1230 but destroyed during the war. The base of the church dates from around 1300, and the rest was rebuilt in 1987. The East German government redeveloped this entire area, the Nikolaiviertal, as an attempt to recreate a medieval village. It is a charming area with lots of good restaurants, but really is just a neighborhood of historic building replicas. Checkpoint Charlie, the former border crossing point into East Berlin. Our hotel was only about a block and a half south of this [now] extremely touristy landmark. Former seal of the DDR. Again, symbols of a city once divided. And on a lighter note, whimsical Berlin "buddy bears" appeared throughout the city. Next it was on to Dresden, famous for hosting one of Germany's oldest Christmas markets, the <em>Striezelmarkt</em> (first held in 1434). Our hotel room looked out over the market on the Altmarkt. Dresden is the largest city near the Erzgebirge, the mountains where the original nutcrackers, pyramids and other Christmas woodworking decorations were crafted. The Striezelmarkt boasts the world's tallest pyramid, measuring 14 meters. The most famous landmark in Dresden today is probably the Frauenkirche, originally built in the early 1700s but completely destroyed by WWII bombing. Reconstruction began in 1993, and was finally completed in 2005 and provides a great source of pride for the city and its residents. A statue of Martin Luther in the Neumarkt, next to the Frauenkirche. It took a few attempts to get inside (was always too full, or private services going on), but we finally got in. It was much brighter than we expected. A look straight up into the dome. We also went to the top of the dome, to a viewing platform overlooking the city. A look back down into the church from the way up to the top. A gorgeous day in Dresden – perfectly sunny, and in the upper 40s, unusually warm for this time of year. Looking west down the Elbe River, towards the Residenzschloß, the Zwinger and the Semperoper. Ben enjoying the view. Another Christmas market was set up around the Frauenkirche. It covered the Neumarkt, but also stretched down a narrow street to the river. Another giant pyramid, this one capping off a Glühwein stand. The Kunstakademie (Art Academy), also known as Zitronenpresse (lemon squeezer) for its unusual ribbed glass dome. At night, light shines through the glass panes to illuminate the dome... quite beautiful. Practicing with my new zoom lens. The Fürstenzug (procession of dukes), a 102 meter long frieze depicting the procession of many Saxon rulers. The original frieze was replaced in 1907 with 24,000 Meissen porcelain tiles (the town of Meissen, famous for its porcelain, is not far from Dresden). The Semperoper, Dresden's famous opera house. A statue of Dionysos and a panther quadriga crown the portal. Next we moved on to the Zwinger, right next to the Semperoper. This beautiful baroque palace, built during the early 1700s, was used primarily for entertaining – staging tournaments, festivals and fireworks displays. Detailed carvings above the entrance to the Wallpavillion on the far end of the inner courtyard. The Kronentor, or crown gate. The Glockenspielpavillon contained a fantastic collection of Meissen porcelain. We also toured an extremely interesting collection of armour and ceremonial weaponry. The 40 Meissen porcelain bells flanking the clock ring every 15 minutes. A view down over the courtyard from the Glockenspielpavillon. The gardens here must be stunning in the summer. There's nothing subtle or understated about baroque style! The evening was spent at the 577th Striezelmarkt – shopping, eating and drinking Glühwein. In addition to the largest pyramid, the Striezelmarkt also boasts the world's largest Schwibbogen (wooden arch), another popular Christmas handicraft from the Erzgebirge area. Bratwurst <em>and</em> Glühwein – heaven on earth!! Loved the Schwibbogen-style wood cutout of the Dresden skyline at this Glühwein stand. The view at night from our hotel room. The next day we headed back down to the riverfront, starting with the Hofkirche, the former church of the royal household in Dresden. The front facade of the church. The Brühlsche Terrace is a wide, raised terrace running along the Elbe River. The prommenade has often been referred to as the "balcony of Europe". The terrace sits above the remnants of the old town fortification system. The Festung Dresden dates back to the mid 1500s, and was enlarged many times over the centuries to enclose and protect an ever expanding city. Inside the fortifications. A history of flood levels from the last few hundred years was etched into the stone. The 2002 flood line was well above all the others. The remains of the original bridge at the main entrance to the city (and what it used to look like). A different view of the Elbe River from the Brühlsche Terrace. A view from the Brühlsche Terrace of the Weihnachtsmarkt lining the Münzgasse (looking back up to the Neumarkt and the Frauenkirche). And just as we were heading down to the market, we noticed this advertising banner on the side of a building. Detour... My parents lived in Bayreuth for a year back in the mid 90s, and Maisel's became my father's favorite beer of all time. We <em>had</em> to go in and drink one for him. This one's for you, Dad! <em>Then</em> to the market for another cup of Glühwein. We then headed back to the Residenzschloß – wish the skyways in Minneapolis were this beautiful. The Residenzschloß was the home of the Saxon kings until the early 1900s, and houses some famous treasure collections (the Grünes Gewölbe) of Dresden's former rulers. Afterwards, we decided to head across the river for a view back on the city skyline and came upon this interesting piece of sculpture commemorating the 2002 flood. A square at the other end of the bridge contains a gilded monument to Augustus the Strong, the Elector of Saxony and King of Poland in the early 1700s. Although the sun wasn't ideally situated for photo taking, we got some nice views of the Dresden skyline. A message (in English) left along the riverbank, using an environmental medium! One last look at the Frauenkirche before heading on to Nürnberg the next day. Our hotel in Nürnberg was a charming small Gasthaus not far from the train station, and right on the main shopping street leading to the Christkindlesmarkt. The view from our room. And in the other direction... we were right next to one of the city's old fortification towers, the Königstor. The old fortification wall that encircles the old city. The Lorenzkirche is an enormous 15th century church within viewing distance of our hotel. The amount of detail in the exterior carvings was quite impressive. The view from the back side gives a better sense of its massive size. The interior was equally impressive, particularly when we discovered that this church was severely damaged during WWII and much of what you see today is reconstructed. Intricate ceiling vaulting Beautiful stained glass windows throughout the church A large advent's wreath, another sign of the season. Heilig-Geist-Spital along the Pegnitz River. Founded in 1332, this was one of the largest hospitals built in the middle ages. It now houses a retirement home and a restaurant, which we ate at that evening (excellent!!). A nice cheerful statue close to the Hauptmarket and the main Christmas market. That's more like it... horse drawn carriages were taking people for tours around town. The horses were beautiful. The Christkind, marking the entrance to the Christkindlesmarket, one of the most famous Christmas markets in Germany. The Christkind is the traditional gift-bringer in certain regions of Europe, and was invented by Martin Luther as a way of discouraging the Catholic figure of St. Nikolaus at Christmas. Rows and rows of vendors fill the Hauptmarkt, the main market square. In addition to Glühwein and Bratwurst, you could find traditional straw ornaments... ... Christmas wood-carving specialties... ... including pyramids, Schwibbögen (wooden arches), smoker men, and nutcrackers... ... and of course plenty of Lebkuchen, a sort of gingerbread that is a delicious specialty of Nürnberg. Heart-shaped Lebkuchen is popular at Christmas markets and Oktoberfest celebrations. The Frauenkirche, dating from the mid 1300s, is one of the best-known landmarks of Nürnberg. Each day at noon, the clock (installed in 1509) displays a procession of Electors paying homage to the Emperor (unfortunately, we missed the show). The Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain) in the middle of the Hauptmarkt. The fountain is adorned with statues of philosophers, evangelists, church leaders, Electors, etc. This is just a replica of the original fountain, erected in the late 1300s. The Heilig-Geist-Spital at night. The next day we headed up to the Kaiserburg, the castle overlooking the city. The courtyard, with the Sinwellturm (Sinwell Tower) and the small structure housing the Tiefer Brunnen (Deep Well). Gate leading to the inner courtyard. The inner courtyard with the Kaiser's living quarters. For hundreds of years, all Emperors were required to begin their rule here. The Sinwellturm, which we were able to ascend for great views of the city... ... after we paid the price. 113 steep, winding steps to get to the top. The view from the top looking back down. Views from the top were fantastic. A couple of the fortification towers and section of city wall. The Rathaus (town hall) While we were up in the tower, the top of the hour hit and church bells all around the city started ringing for what seemed like five minutes. Absolutely, breathtakingly beautiful, and reminded me of those same sounds I used to hear as a kid when we spent summers in Heidelberg. Wonderful memories! I loved some of the old clay tile roof patterns. The Tiefer Brunnen is a well dating from the 14th century (or possibly earlier). It is 47 meters deep, and hits the water table at a level that is actually 10 meters <em>higher</em> than the Pegnitz River. The water was, and remains today, particularly pure and was highly protected as the castle's only water source. Candles were lowered down so that we could see the depth of the well as the flames flickered against the water. The Kaiserburg was built right into the sandstone on the hill. The city wall, as we descended from the Kaiserburg. Fantastic roof lines throughout the city. Talk about a solid foundation! A sculpture in Tiergärtnerplatz, <em>Der Hase - Hommage à Dürer</em>. Inspired by Albrecht Dürer's famous watercolor, this version communicates the negative consequences of tampering with nature. The Albrecht Dürer house, where the famous painter lived for the last 19 years of his life until his death in 1528. A charming cafe built into the city wall. The truly amazing thing was it was the last day of November, and the flowerboxes still had live geraniums. The Tiergärtnertor, a fortification tower from the 16th century. And a view of the tower from the other side of the wall, in places up to 6 meters thick. The half-timbered charm of Tiergärtnerplatz. Beneath the Rathaus (town hall) is the Lochgefängnisse (medieval dungeons), a 12-cell death row and torture chamber. Tours were only in German, so I had to translate for Ben, and we ended up going through with a group of grade school kids on a field trip. First stop... the stretching racks. Lots of interesting devices here... for shackling, breaking necks, branding, etc. Quite a pleasant place (actually, it was quite interesting). Outside the walled part of the city. And back inside again. Tiergärtnerplatz at night. Next it was on to Heidelberg. The main train station, designed like a part of the Heidelberg castle, is just about the same as it was 30+ years ago. Yup, this is a student town alright. The university here (and which I attended for one year) is actually the oldest in Germany, founded in 1386. We stayed in the same hotel we did last time, right near the Alte Brücke (old bridge). This was the view from our window. The Alte Brücke and the Neckar River. The hills above Neuenheim on the opposite side of the Neckar. Heidelberg now has multiple Christmas markets set up throughout the city... one of the main locations being Universitätsplatz where it was held when I was a student there. Another market takes place at the Marktplatz, with the Rathaus (town hall) in the background. Heidelberg's version of the pyramid, topping a Glühwein vendor next to the Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit). The lowest tier has figures from Heidelberg's history... ... like a fraternity member at the university, Perkeo (a court jester known for drinking massive quantities of wine), and <em>Homo heidelbergensis</em>. You could hang out and drink all day here! Not a good place for vegetarians! Seriously... where were the 5 kg jars of Nutella when I was a kid?!? (Sorry Pam... it was too heavy and big to lug home.) The Hauptstraße, Heidelberg's mile-long pedestrian shopping street, decked out for the holidays. The pyramid at night. As wonderful as the markets are during the day, they take on an entirely new level of festivity at night. The Heidelberger Schloß (castle) – the colored lights in the Englisher Bau on the right rotated between different color combinations for the holidays. The Brückentor at the end of the Alte Brücke, one of the city's most recognizable landmarks along with the castle. The Alte Brücke at night. The brass monkey at the foot of the bridge. The belief is that if you touch the mirror and outstretched fingers, you'll return to Heidelberg again. (Yes, of course I did!) Our hotel, the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, taken from the bridge. The Schloß, as seen from the bridge. The Brückentor, with the Heiliggeistkirche at the Marktplatz in the background. A look back on the Altstadt from the other side of the Neckar. Hotel Zum Ritter, now a luxury hotel and restaurant, is the oldest building in Heidelberg (built in 1592) and the only one to have survived the fires set by the French in 1693 that destroyed the city. The Steingasse, a charming street leading up from the Brückentor, lined with shops, restaurants, and the fabulous microbrewery Vetter. The Hercules fountain at the Marktplatz, next to the Heiliggeistkirche. The old Bergbahn, which we decided to take up to Königstuhl at the top of the hill above Heidelberg. Die Alte Brücke, as seen from Molkenkur half way up. The Heiliggeistkirche and the Neckar River Friedrichsbau, part of the Heidelberg castle The Bergbahn runs on a cable and pulley system. With a shared track, the two cars must synchronize their departures from the opposite stations in order to pass each other at the right time. The view from Königstuhl of the Altstadt, Handschuhsheim (the part of the city where I lived during my year abroad in college), Neuenheim (with the new university campus) and down the Neckar towards the city of Mannheim. The Fernsehturm (TV tower) at the top of the hill. The Germans are huge walkers, and there are kilometers and kilometers of hiking trails through the forests around Heidelberg. We decided to take a short walk on one of the trails, and came across these awesome benches at the very start. Both wishing we had the whole day to walk around the woods... Hard to describe it, but the woods looked and <em>smelled</em> exactly the same as I remember them as a kid. We spent many summers in an apartment just on the other side of the hill from this location, and my sister and I would walk through the woods to my dad's lab to meet him after work (or for a walk home for lunch). This hour or so that Ben and I spent walking brought back a wave of wonderful childhood memories. Reminded me again that had I decided to have had kids, I never would have been able to provide them with the same richness of experiences that I was fortunate enough to have had. Can't thank Mom and Dad enough for what they provided for us! Back at the Königstuhl station, we got a glimpse of the cable wheels that run the system. Ready for a ride back down to the castle. Approaching the station The Heidelberger Altstadt This has always been one of my favorites houses up on the hill near the castle. There was even a Weihnachtsmarkt up on the castle grounds. The ruins of the Englisher Bau and Alte Bau. The Torturm and main entrance gate to the inner courtyard. The Pulverturm (Powder Tower), which was blown up by the French in 1693 during the Palatinate War of Succession. The Pulverturm, back side of the Ludwigsbau, and the Bibliotheksturm. The Glockenturm (Bell Tower), my favorite part of the castle. Extensive gardens (the Hortus Palatinus), at one time one of the most famous in Europe, were built off to the east side of the castle. The Scheffelterrasse (Scheffel Terrace) extends off the far end of those gardens. The views from the terrace back towards the castle and city are fabulous, and I've spent many hours up here over the years admiring my beloved city and pondering life in general. The Pulverturm from another perspective. The Scheffelterrasse The front facade of the Friedrichsbau. Inside the Heiliggeistkirche. Great views of the city from the church tower. The Alte Brücke The Brückentor A view up the Neckar The Schloß Hotel zum Ritter Jesuitenkirche The old university building. The Ruprecht-Karls-Universität Heidelberg is the oldest in Germany, founded in 1386. The mile-long pedestrian shopping street, the Hauptstraße The Studentenkarzer (student prison), where students were locked up for days (or weeks) for misbehaving (e.g., disturbing the peace, public drunkenness, etc.). Incarcerated students were allowed to attend class, but had to return immediately to the prison and stay off the streets until their sentence was served. Staying in the prison was almost a right of passage that many students looked forward to. Members of fraternal orders (which still exist today at the university), each group with a unique colored cap and sash, would paint a record of their stay on the walls. This one professes "<em>To academic freedom</em>", and "<em>3 weeks at the Grand Hotel</em>" (from March 5-26, 1908). These two students wrote a poem about their experience... in the darkness of night they headed off to a boarding house with "bad" intentions. They threw ten frogs into the garden to make noise, and as a result someone in a negligee appeared at the window to see what was going on. With the rooms's light, they were able to see "everything". Got caught, and sent to the Studentenkarzer. Very amusing poem! "<em>One for all and all for one!</em>" "<em>... we sit here as martyrs of our honesty.</em>" "<em>Naturally innocent!!!!!(!)</em>"  Very good stuff on these walls! The Alte Aula (old auditorium) in the old university building. This ornately decorated room is used for academic celebrations, special lectures, concerts, etc. Saw this in a shop window our last night – the most ingenious kitchen knife block <em>ever</em>!!! The Königsallee, or simply Kö, lined with exclusive boutiques and designer shops (Düsseldorf is considered the fashion capital of Germany), and built along the edge of the old city moat. Düsseldorf is famous for its Altbier, and there are quite a few breweries in town. We visited three of them, and the traditional way to serve them is in small 0.25 liter glasses. When you want another, waiters walking around with trays full of beer drop another off and put a pencil mark on your coaster. Add the end of the night, you add up the marks and pay for what you drank. Our second Rammstein concert of the trip (6th overall) took place our first night in Düsseldorf at the ISS Dome. We weren't in the pit, but had tickets for a standing-space only area in the first ring above the pit. Pretty good spots actually... much better than in Berlin. Since my camera had been confiscated in Berlin, I didn't even try this time and settled for the crappy camera in my cell phone. Horrible shots, but better than nothing. We've finally been able to see <em>Mein Teil</em> performed live... with the boiling pot, flamethrowers and all. A true highlight for any Rammstein fan! The keyboardist crowd surfing, something the band has been doing at every concert for years. A large bridge came down over the crowd connecting the main stage to a smaller secondary stage, where they performed three songs. The procession over to the small stage was hilarious, with a takeoff on one of their music videos. We had a pretty good view of the secondary stage, particularly nice for the <em>Bück Dich</em> performance (Rammstein fans will know what I'm talking about). The end of the regular set. One of the encore numbers, <em>Engel</em>. A gracious band thanking their audience at the end of yet another phenomenal performance. This stuff never gets old. Next time though, we'll be in the pit right up front. The next morning we decided to head down to Köln, only about 20 minutes away from Düsseldorf by train, to see the famous cathedral. The Kölner Dom is the most famous Gothic structure in Germany. The Kölner Dom sits almost immediately next to the main train station. Construction began in 1248, and was not completed until 1880. Massive... really no other word for it. The main entrance doors at the center of the front facade. A replica of the spire tops... ... and with the actual cathedral in the background. The interior of the cathedral. The stained glass at the end of the cathedral. The advent's wreath at the main altar. The Shrine of the Three Kings, made from 1190-1220 and said to contain the remains of the kings who followed the star to the Bethlehem stable. When these remains were first brought to Köln in 1164, it instantly turned the city into a major pilgrimage site. The entire cathedral was covered with spectacular mosaic floors. An abstract stained glass window, consisting of 11,500 squares in 72 colors, casts spectacular colors onto the stone on the opposite side of the cathedral when the afternoon light shines in. One of Köln's Christmas markets takes place right next to the cathedral. Yum, yum! Landjäger, one of my all-time favorites. I had a bit of an emotional moment after taking this shot. A gorgeous day, a beautiful building in front of me, the sound of German all around, the wonderful smells of the market foods, and my husband by my side... made me realize how fortunate and how unbelievably happy I was at that very moment (cue the tears). Flying buttresses One last day of Glühwein Bis zum nächsten Mal...